A Brief History of Food: Mozzarella

During one episode of the Channel 5 documentary “Pompeii: Life in the City” it was claimed that the Romans ate mozzarella cheese, but this is not entirely true. There is certainly evidence that Romans were producing a similar type of cheese made from sheep’s milk by the middle of the 1st-century AD, but not mozzarella. True mozzarella is made from the milk of the Water Buffalo, an animal not introduced to the Italian mainland until centuries after the Roman period.

Production

Mozzarella is part of broader group of cheeses known as pasta filata (meaning “spun paste”, a reference to how they are made) that includes Caciocavallo, Provolone and Scamorza. Mozzarella, however, is named after its specific production process. In Italian, the verb mozzare means “to cut” or “to take away” and signifies how mozzarella is made by kneading and stretching very much like bread dough.

The cheese is made in two basic ways, either the direct acidification of the milk to form the curds or the culture/rennet method. In both methods, raw milk is pasteurized by heating to a temperature of around 35°C (95°F). This creates an ideal environment for the rennet added to the milk to coagulate and separate it into curds and whey (“curdling”). Once the curds reach a pH of 5.2, they are cut into small pieces and mixed with hot water and then “strung” or “spun” until long ropes of cheese are formed, hence pasta filata. When the right smooth, elastic consistency has been achieved, the curds are shaped by hand or machine into balls. The curds can be mixed with fresh herbs, sun-dried tomatoes, basil pesto, or chili peppers before forming to add flavour. With or without the additions, the balls of cheese are pitched into cold water so they maintain their shape during cooling before being salted and packaged. The whole process from raw milk to finished cheese is comparatively short at usually less than 8 hours. The critical moment is determining exactly when the cheese is mature and ready to be strung. Wait too long and mushy cheese results, while stringing too early will produce a tough, dry cheese.

History

Mozzarella originated in medieval southern Italy in the Campania region specifically near Napoli (Naples), Caserta, and Salerno. By the 12th-century it had become the practice of the monks of San Lorenzo Monastery in Capua in the Province of Caserta, to offer bread and a cheese to passing pilgrims. The cheese was called “mozza”, a term meaning “cut” or “severed” (from the verb mozzare), a reference to the traditional way it was shaped by hand. While sheep’s milk cheese predominated, around this time the rich, high-fat milk of water buffalos was introduced to the region. This led to the first production of Mozzarella di Bufala (“Buffalo Mozzarella”). One legend suggests the buffalos were introduced to southern Italy by the Normans or even earlier by Arabs. Either way the animals thrived in the marshlands of Campania, and their rich milk led to the creation of one of Italy’s most iconic cheeses.

In the 16th-century water buffalo farming expanded and the change from sheep’s milk to authentic Mozzarella di Bufala began in earnest. In a 1570 the word “mozzarella” for a type of cheese made only from buffalo milk first appeared in a cookbook written by Bartolomeo Scappi, a chef to the Papal Court. Two centuries later during the 18th-century the House of Bourbon’s Kingdom of the Two Sicilies [1] is credited with greatly expanding the breeding of buffalos in Campania. The royal family’s strong influence meant the cheese won a special place in the hearts, minds and stomachs of southern Italians. Even so, for centuries Mozzarella di Bufala remained a luxury product. As it was not made from pasteurized milk and because there was little or no refrigeration, the cheese had a very short shelf-life. Made in small quantities mozzarella seldom left southern Italy until the 20th-century when refrigeration allowed the cheese to be transported and become widely available throughout Europe and America. As a particularly versatile cheese there was an enormous surge in its popularity worldwide after World War 2. Today mozzarella is the most popular cheese in America and the second most popular cheese in the world being used in numerous dishes from pizza to pasta and salads. This enormous demand has meant changes, however. Most mozzarella is now made from cow’s milk, but this has a milder taste than the more traditional Mozzarella di Bufala.

Versatility

Mozzarella has evolved over time to the extent that it now comes in several varieties, each with their own unique characteristics, textures, and flavours. Understanding their differences is key to creating delicious authentic Italian dishes:

• Mozzarella di Bufala Campana DOP (The original Buffalo Mozzarella) is made from 100% water buffalo milk to be rich and creamy with a tangy, slightly acidic flavour. It is still produced mainly in Campania, Lazio, Apulia, and Molise. Being DOP-certified (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) means it can only be made in specific regions using traditional methods. Soft, delicate, and very moist, this cheese is best enjoyed fresh in Caprese salad, on pizza (if well-drained), or paired with cured meats.

• Fior di Latte (Cow’s Milk Mozzarella) which, as it name suggests, is made from cow’s milk, primarily in Campania and Lombardy. Its flavour is less tangy and acidic than buffalo mozzarella, but its firmer and drier texture makes it ideal for Neapolitan pizza, baked dishes such as lasagna, in panini, and many other traditional Italian recipes.

• Burrata (the Cream-Filled Mozzarella) is originally from Puglia, Italy. It is again made from cow’s milk with a soft outer shell of mozzarella and a creamy interior of stracciatella (shredded mozzarella soaked in cream). This cheese is best enjoyed fresh, paired with prosciutto, tomatoes, and olive oil.

• Mozzarella Affumicata (Smoked Mozzarella) can be made from either buffalo or cow’s milk. Naturally smoked over wood chips, gives it a deep, smoky flavour. With a slightly firmer texture than fresh mozzarella, it is great for grilled dishes, pasta, or charcuterie boards.

• Treccia Mozzarella (Braided Mozzarella) can be made from either buffalo or cow’s milk and has a similar taste to fresh mozzarella. The cheese is braided for festive occasions making its texture slightly firmer, however.

• Mozzarella Stracciatella is the shredded, creamy interior found inside Burrata (see above). Being extremely soft and rich, it is best enjoyed as a topping for bruschetta, salads, or pasta.

• Ovoline, Ciliegine, and Bocconcini are small balls of Mozzarella either egg-sized, cherry-sized, or bite-sized respectively. They are perfect for salads, antipasti, or just snacking in general.

• Low-Moisture Mozzarella is primarily for industrial use, especially in the US. The low moisture content makes it drier, firmer and less flavoursome than fresh Italian mozzarella. It is used in American-style pizza, where a low-moisture cheese is needed for melting.

Mozzarella’s cultural and historical roots have made it even more special. For Italians producing mozzarella is an artform using carefully crafted traditional methods passed down the generations. Whether it is the luxurious Mozzarella di Bufala from Campania, the perfectly melting Fior di Latte for pizza, or the creamy indulgence of Burrata, each type of cheese tells a story of tradition, passion and artisanal skill. Bon appétit!

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References:

Deiana, G., (2025), “The History of Mozzarella: A Cheese Born from Legend and Necessity”, Flour and Egg, available online (accessed 14 December 2025).

Fortunato, B., (2020), “The History of Mozzarella”, The Italian Tribune, available online (accessed 14 December 2025).

Lambert, P., (2020), “Mozzarella History”, The Mozzarella Company, available online (accessed 14 December 2025).

Lee, S., (2025), “Mozzarella Cheese: A Historical Perspective”, Number Analytics, available online (accessed 14 December 2025).

Endnote:

1. The name of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies arose from the unification of the Kingdom of Sicily with the Kingdom of Naples (called the kingdom of peninsular Sicily), by King Alfonso V of Aragon in 1442. ▲